Alright, I got the valve train assembled, here's a shot:



The camshafts aren't really assembled yet, I'm going to bolt the head on the block before torqueing cam bearings. I would've assembled the head and block today, but I had taken a shortcut and used an old G-clip from the old piston after I had lost one when it sprang loose from the piston (god knows where it flew, glad it wasn't my eye...) and when I was supposed to pick up the set of new C-clips to replace it, it was sent unintentionally back to the main store! Not a biggie, I'll pick it up tomorrow but still I wish I had received the clip today.

I had a chat with a fellow Mazda club member about the VICS hack. Apparently it does improve top end, but in his setup (NA) it sacrifices far too much on the middle range! I could work around the problem by messing with boost curves; however, that's not how I would have it. I've been very serious about improving engine volumetric efficiency and dialing the boost up to compensate losses in VE is not the way to go! I have to see how it works for me and if it's possible to correct, or if I've been wildly off the mark.

I must disagree there, I left the long runners effectively intact, so while the the intake is configured for low to medium RPM configuration, the performance should not be affected, but now it seems it is... There is a possible explanation to it, however.
At first I thought the gap was too high between the low and high RPM and opening the VICS just a bit might help, but now it seems that wasn't it at all. First, he said the engine got pretty powerful after 4700 RPM and the VICS point was felt. However, he said he didn't use a vacuum reservoir at all, and the vacuum inside the intake at full throttle isn't at all great. It might be the butterflies were half open while at medium RPM. That would make sense; at low RPM the ail spilling through the short runners would ruin flow velocity, while at higher RPM it would not flow enough, and thus the VICS would still make a noticeable kick when set to high RPM. I'm still speculating though. Too bad the guy doesn't have the setup any more, I might've sent him my external vacuum reservoir.

I went to collect the new clips - only to hear they won't arrive until tuesday! I really had forgot the basic rule of obtaining parts; there's no part small or common enough not to cause a major hassle. I'm really getting the vibes of 2008 here, when every delivery time was measured in months.

It seems also I had misplaced the washer between the cam gear and bolt, went to the dealer to ask for a replacement, only to discover they'd charge 13;50eur for it! No deal. I'm just going to assemble the head this weekend and bolt it on the block next week.

Which washer is this? I can't even recall how mine looks - I don't know why I'm thinking it's a one piece (bolt and washer together). Nothing else you can use even permanently - that's ZAR 126 here - damn expensive!

Progress!! This time not with a few months wait either

I had been chasing the C-clips for a week, but finally after rummaging the incoming bin, they found them, I paid the 1,50e (you really don't save any money by reusing old clips but risk an awful lot)

While undoing the bolts in the rods, I dropped one of the washers, and decided to take a photo of a little thing with grave consequences if messed up:



There's a bevel in the washer, that's to clear the root bevel in the bolt. If the washer goes the wrong way, the washer will collide with the bevel and it won't tighten properly. Little stuff where you can go badly wrong... The piston reinstall went well. piston ring compressor is a great aid, just tap lightly on the piston dome with a wooden handle and it slides almost by itself in. I used standard bolts for the time being, as the bottom end brace is in indefinite future. I torqued the rod bolts to 45Nm (with moly) and main bolts to 75Nm. Under spec, because I had moly at hand and used that stuff. It really is much slicker than oil.

And finally...


the stage where I thought I'd be by May 2008... no such luck. Then again, by all intents and purposes that was entirely different engine back then. The Gaskets-to-go guy advised not to use sealants, so I didn't. It got just a light coat of oil. I put a tiny bead of permatex sealant on the control oil hole, since it has a rubber ring on the stock gasket too and it's a known leak spot.



I cleaned and fitted the studs, making sure each threads all the way in. According to ARP, thread locker on the block end thread is okay, as long as the tightening is done while the stuff sets, so I was in a bit of a rush after applying the locker. ARP moly lube went on on the fine threads (and nut flanges), it's great the the end with the nut is fine pitch thread, all the more reason to use them. Aligning the head with studs is a great deal more delicate job than with bolts. I must say working inside the DOHC head takes some nimble digits!

After a brief stint of panic over 14mm 12-point socket, it was found and I got to torque the head. The numbers I got from ARP are INSANE compared to OEM bolt ratings. Apples to apples, the OEM torque is 80-86Nm and ARP was 162! With moly lube the advised torque was 110Nm, however.

And so, years overdue...




The engine is back in one piece!

Well, not quite, there are still important stuff like the oil pump missing, rear crank seal and such, but the principal assembly is finally done! It cleared up the garage a *lot* too. Also there's the brace/girdle I'm going to do, besides stiffening the block it allows me to use the main studs too! Making the girdle tightening height 18mm I could use head bolts or head studs as mains, pretty crafty isn't it

I decided not to keep the cam gears visible, as fashionable and beautiful they are. This decision is simply because I want to keep the belt as free from contamination as possible. Oil mist as such is bad for the rubber in the plastic, but that's not all. The light oily surface is sure to pick up dust and other solid particles, creating an abrasive coating on the cam belt. I've seen a few shots ot totally worn out cam gears, and while bad material quality sure has to do with it, I'm quite sure the dust and oil have done their part too. The covers do a great job shielding the belt, when the engine I took off from the 626 hatch was literally covered in grime and dirt, the belt and wheels were pristine.

Things are very very slowly picking up with employment. There are still certain very expensive parts to buy (turbo and intercooler, fuel system) which I'm hoping to get to buy this year. this summer preferrably.

Well, I'll kep an eye out if I can't part with mine! I'm planning 36-1 but I don't want to give up it just yet.

Right... once I get the engine properly sealed, I'll focus on designing the external brackets and exhaust system. A cood CAD model should help a lot when building the thing.

Once I get the engine off the hanger, I'll put the transaxle on it. Reinforcing that thing will be quite task. Mazda did develop the G-box so it could take the near 300Nm from the turbodiesel in 2002, so I don't think it's impossible. Just a bit difficult.

Wait I need to go back and re-read a few posts - did you just mention 4wd transmission  Hell it's been so long you've probably posted about this a few times. Glad things are looking up for you money wise, let the bucks roll in and get the rest of your goodies - I think you'll be done August / September this year ;-)

*hopeful*

So you are basically looking at a 4wd swap complete :-) in that case, no you did not mention it and this thread took a big leap forward on the excitement scale for me!

Much respect Karri! This is no easy feat.

STW, how much did shipping set you back from Autotech on those valve springs? I'm compiling a final list of my own valvetrain goodies. What is your opinion on keeping the inners OEM for anything above 9000rpm?

Cheers.

You don't have a spare out do you? 

I'm looking for inner and outer diameter for the 10.109.623 valve springs. Autotech aren't big on publishing their specifications.

Here's the thing, I wanted to use either Ferrea or Supertech, but each of these vendors are not clear on product codes for oversize vs oem sized items for this specific model of vehicle. I didn't want to order in the wrong set for one of my builds

I guess an even better place to start is info on the oem VR6 springs and work from there, there is nothing stopping me from using another spring from another brand / make of vehicle if dimensions match (which is the idea behind the question).

If you come across this info, please PM or post up for me. In the meantime I'll continue the search.