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Author Topic: My Stroker 2.2 in the build(Lots of Pictures)  (Read 740 times)
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nevillehome
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« on: October 30, 2011, 05:56:32 AM »

Well it has been 20 months that i have started to build my Stroker 2.2 Mazda FE Dohc motor, where do i start

Well i will start with the crank and the block, as we all know that there are oil issues with the crank, spinning bearings, well i have done quiet a bit of mods on the Block and the Crank, i am going to use the diesel crank shaft in my build, what i did on the Crank is that i have crossed drilled the mains and the rods, here is a picture of the cross drilling that was done.

Picture of the R2 crank, showing all the cross drilling


Here is a picture of the crank that i have polished a little bit


There has been quiet a lot of mods done onto the Motor Block its self, to over come the oil issues, i also have o-ring the block to boost, here is a picture of the Block


It has taken me 10 months alone to finish the Block, as we all know how long the engineering companies take, i forgot to mod the crank for the fe oil pump, just wanting for that, then i will ass the block.

« Last Edit: October 30, 2011, 05:58:43 AM by nevillehome » Logged
nevillehome
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« Reply #1 on: October 30, 2011, 06:03:39 AM »

Well i am not going to use the diesel flywheel, as the diesel flywheel is to heavy as we all know, so i got myself a new flywheel made-up for my project.

Picture 1


Picture 2


My gearbox what i got I imported it from the UK, it is a Mazda 6 diesel 6 speed gearbox, but i also got myself a Mazda 3 MPS 6 speed gearbox, i will be using the Mazda 3 MPS gears.

Here is a picture of the Mazda 6 Diesel and the Mazda 3 MPS gearbox, i know that the starter is sitting on the wrong side of the gearbox, but i will over come this to.



And i got myself a Nascar clutch

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nevillehome
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« Reply #2 on: October 30, 2011, 06:15:05 AM »

well what i done to my cylinder head, i got myself the Nissan 300zx intake ans exhaust valves, and Nissan 300zx cotters(Keepers), and the Honda B18 Brian Crower valve springs, and also got my injectors to, got myself a set of Fidanza Cam-Gears from the group buy that Ryan had arranged on clubprotege, and ARP head studs

Picture of the Head as it is complete now


Here is a picture the Nissan Ferrea stainless steel valves


Picture of the Nissan cotters (Keepers)


Picture of the Honda B18 retainers


Here is a picture of the Valves and retainer, retainers are machined to fit the valves and Cotters(Keepers)



And i got Delphi injectors


Fidanza Cam-Gears


ARP head studs


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« Reply #3 on: October 30, 2011, 06:22:12 AM »

Well i got myself a set of Pauter rods, and i bought a set of Wiseco Pistons of Matt of the mx6 forum, I am going to use ACL bearing in my build, and got myself a set of ARP L19 rod bolts to

ACL Bearings



Pauter Rods


Matts Wiseco Psitons


ARP L19 Rod Bolts

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nevillehome
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« Reply #4 on: October 30, 2011, 06:52:29 AM »

well my turbo will be a turbonetics T72, and a have a Schalk turbo branch

Turbonetics


Turbo Branch


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jdmmonkey
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« Reply #5 on: October 31, 2011, 12:56:08 PM »

Neville! Awesome posting. Good to see another modified Mazda FE in progress. Heavily modified - not just bolt ons.

I hear you on the length of time! 20 months, I think mines been close on that too now! Can't really remember when I did the initial teardown.

R2 Crank and the issues with oil supply I'm well aware of but it would seem you've covered all of your basis and common pitfalls.

Although I'm going the na route, I'm also looking at larger diameter valves, similar to those Ferrea items you've posted up - glad you found a good spring and retainer (and keeper) combo to match it all nicely.

Do you have any specs on spring rates? What was final deck height on the block after work? Still stockish? One has to stand back and admire the amount of meat we have at our disposal there compared to other motors.

PS: Glad you went Pauter on the rods - well worth the money invested there!
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« Reply #6 on: October 31, 2011, 09:47:00 PM »

Thanks, for the post, the spring rate i don't have, can find out for you, the crank is in the engineering place for the mod for the oil pump, i totally forgot about it, hopefully i should have it back this week, the i must just get it balanced then i can ass the motor, as for the Pauter rods i got it at a very very good price, Ryan from the www.clubprotege.com is also selling the same as Pauter rods for next to nothing, as for the deck, lets see what i can do, when they ass the sub ass for me....

What have you done to your mazda stroker ?
what pistons have you got ?
what rods have you got ?
what bearings are you going to run?
what cams have you got ?


this is my next engine build !! Tongue


i have started with the lowing of the head

this is the standard head


this is one port flowed just need to polish up a bit


 Grin
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jdmmonkey
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« Reply #7 on: November 01, 2011, 08:17:14 AM »

Good on you for the pics and posting, yes I heard Ryan was selling something at a steal - unfortunately not for my application, i've gone an entirely new route.

What have you done to your mazda stroker ?
what pistons have you got ?
what rods have you got ?
what bearings are you going to run?
what cams have you got ?

Are these direct towards my project? I'm not going stroker, instead i'm pushing the stock 1998cc to the maximum I can before it goes up in smoke :-) It's a test to see just how far I can push the motor in NA trim.

I can't give too much away on the build unfortunately specification wise (as its for my company and promotional reasons). What I can say is the parts list is 80% off the shelf with modification with the balance brand new items, designed from scratch.

The sort of brands I'll be incorporating span from Pauter all the way to OEM Toyota. Really a mixed bag to get the right combination that works for the project. I've got a big target to reach - it's going to be difficult - but possible.

I think the best to answer the above:

1.) Pauter or Eagle rods - undecided and budget dependent, if Pauter totally custom titanium piece (we deal the rods), if Eagle - something off the shelf modified for the FE DOHC crank

2.) Wiseco custom or off the shelf pistons with modification.

3.) I'll be running Clevite bearings with a specially developed coating we've been working on in Japan.

4.) Initially wanted to cut a set of billet cams but the cost outweighed the good parts of this. Instead re-cutting a virgin FE5A's (Sad to, but has to be done). I'm going for a moderate lift / high duration camshaft. It won't idle below 2000rpm.

All the best Neville - you definitely need to give me a spin when she's done, run-in and tuned.

PS: Forgot to mention this previous posting but the MPS box - it was something I considered with a good short ratio gear setup (for my own build) - the cost of those though. They are a bit pricey. If you have two and building one final box, is there trouble with the other one and the left over components? When you done let me know - perhaps I can still use 80% of the stuff with modification. (If I understood what you're doing there correctly)
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nevillehome
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« Reply #8 on: November 01, 2011, 08:54:07 PM »

i am quiet interested in the coating for the bearings, would you be able to do it for me ? and the cost ?
my e-mail address is nevillehome@vodamail.co.za send me your contact details.

As for the gearbox, the one with the FE bellhousing it is a diesel gearbox, and the ratios are long, that's why i got the Mazda 3 MPS gearbox, as the  gears are interchangeable in the gearbox, but when i have changed the gears, as for the rest of the gearbox, I am sure we could talk about it, that's not a problem.

This is the car it will all go into
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« Reply #9 on: November 01, 2011, 08:58:58 PM »

Sorry - I misunderstood, thought you had two MPS boxes - apologies - this happens when you half read something and get interupted.

Will email you early in the morning.
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nevillehome
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« Reply #10 on: November 05, 2011, 01:18:51 PM »

Hi, don't you want to send me your contact details, please.
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« Reply #11 on: November 06, 2011, 07:25:29 PM »

Hi Neville, been very busy past week - please send through a mail to sales.at.toyamaracingspirit.dot.com

I'll get back to you on coating shortly, as stated, it's R&D stage, not ready for general public but more than willing to assist if you understand the risks.
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« Reply #12 on: November 07, 2011, 09:45:49 AM »

Responded to email, thank you for contacting us.
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« Reply #13 on: December 02, 2011, 08:41:08 PM »

Well Santa has come early this year for me. Tongue Tongue












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« Reply #14 on: December 05, 2011, 08:16:01 AM »

What pistons have you decided to use now Neville? I remember seeing your K20 set for sale (incorrect bore).
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« Reply #15 on: December 05, 2011, 07:01:55 PM »

No, those are Wiseco Pistons 86.5, those JE Pistons are a spare set of pistons that i want to use for a spare motor that i wanted to build, but the JE are 88mm and those are a bit to big, scared that the walls will crack under pressure....... Sad   Cry

Here is a picture of those pistons that are in my motor




« Last Edit: December 05, 2011, 07:14:54 PM by nevillehome » Logged
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« Reply #16 on: December 06, 2011, 09:27:37 AM »

Same page now, you're running the K20 stock pistons then, also 86mm. Do you have your old FE pistons some where? what are the pin height differences?
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nevillehome
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« Reply #17 on: December 06, 2011, 09:25:22 PM »

No these are not the K20, these are for the Mazda FE Stroker motor, these are not off the shelf stuff, these were made up for the stroker, here is the Part number from Wiseco

Part Number: CA-00711-2326
Forging number: F6095XA1

Comp Height is 1.277
Bore Size is 3.4050 (I understand it as piston is 3.4020 add .030 for clearance)

Hope that it will help you, i have got the Wiseco Piston document that came with, if you need it i can send it to you..

I will measure the old Mazda FE pistons for you on Friday, and compare the the Mazda Vs Honda Pistons, and let you know.
« Last Edit: December 06, 2011, 09:42:27 PM by nevillehome » Logged
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« Reply #18 on: December 07, 2011, 07:59:17 AM »

Alright, these are definitely not the oem ones. Yes - if you get a moment still interested in pin location out of interest.

Thanks for sharing those part numbers with the community.
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« Reply #19 on: December 09, 2011, 11:15:05 AM »

Here is a picture of the standard pistons and a picture of the Je Honda Ka20 piston



The standard Mazda deck is 24.5mm and the Honda K20 deck is 19mm
hope that answers your question
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« Reply #20 on: December 12, 2011, 09:50:04 AM »

Perfect. Thanks.
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« Reply #21 on: December 12, 2011, 12:00:23 PM »

wonder what the complications would be if you take the FE deck down to 19mm
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nevillehome
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« Reply #22 on: January 10, 2012, 02:14:31 PM »

well my front calipers arrived for my car





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« Reply #23 on: January 10, 2012, 03:30:07 PM »

4 pots off of which vehicle? Looks nissan-ish to me. Definite improvement in the stopping department coming your way - great choice.
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« Reply #24 on: January 11, 2012, 04:27:30 PM »

these caliper came of a comaro  Shocked
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