Mr Turbo is an easy to use management system but very basic in what it will have control over as you step into more 'elaborate' modifications.

For now though it sounds like you're running it with the stock motor? Correct? Hope you had it installed and tuned so that it's safe while in use (daily or weekends).

Right onto the modifications, before we go any further - are you fitting any of these things by yourself? I recommend you do where you can to A) save heartache from incorrectly fit parts by a vendor who claims to know whats going on but would rather chase the money B) learn about your build and C) because you've actually accomplished the build on your own, you're going to feel a hell of a lot better than dropping cash so someone else can play around :-)

Trust me I've tried both avenues, letting others do the work as they're paid for and since 2008, my own stuff is done along with friends or myself - wherever possible. There are times when you'll HAVE to ask for advice and that is fine. There are also times when you'll have to trust others on your buid ie: tuning aspect from what you've posted and other things like suspension setup etc.

Onto your motor, the AE82 chisel shape you speaking about also known by a code FX16, although Japanese at heart isn't a true JDM vehicle wasn't built in Japan but rather in Fremont California at Toyota's Nummi facility ;-) Not many people know this.

Now... this is what I'd recommend you do. I recommend the below purely because of the chassis age, potential daily drive use and a project that will feel rewarding because you'll attain closure on it. IE: the project isn't massive and something that will take ages to finally complete. When you enter the 'I just want to get it done' phase - the project has taken too much time and more hassle than reward.

1.) There are plenty of parts available, if you struggling to find, ask some of us. Despite this I would rather turn back to Japan for the power plant before even starting! I'd go back to JDM roots with a 4AGZE from AE101 configuration (170PS / 210Nm). PS also known as Pferdestärke is a unit of power measurement in Japan (and other countries) similar to HP, if you convert it back to our metric ways, you're looking at 125Kw.

The reason I'd select this motor is the internals are designed for boost from the standard supercharger and you wouldn't require too much modification later to run more force induction boost from either forms, supercharger or turbo.

2.) Source a Japanese spec AE111 6- Speed transmission. The gears run through quickly until 6th, it's a fun combination of acceleration and fuel economy on longer trips. The code I recommend you look for is a C160. Ratio's are as follows:

1st Gear 3.166
2nd Gear   2.050
3rd Gear 1.481
4th Gear 1.166
5th Gear 0.916
6th Gear 0.725
Reverse Gear 3.250
Final Drive is 4.529

They come in LSD and non LSD models so check for this as well depending on what you prefer. The VIN on cars that contained the code 12C are LSD equipped and the ones with 12A are not.

3.) The above configuration allows the use of aircon too - so no issues there - I like my aircon, not sure if it's a big deal or not for you.

This is the end of phase 1 of the project, you've finished something and can sit back and admire the work gone into sourcing the parts, fitting it all together and the excitement of a supercharged package with minimal effort where you didn't have to spend any...

Think about this, linear boost from the supercharger with zero lag, fully capable of running off pump gas, approximate curb weight of 1047kg (give or take because you'll have weight difference from swap).

You'll be pulling 8.3kg per Kw at the fly which isn't bad - it's not a 1/4 mile rocket but it will definitely be fun to drive around.

First thing you need to do before attempting anything further is:

1.) Freshen up that 510000km motor, there's no way it's holding compression like it used to
2.) Fix your ignition issue
3.) Decide on a goal power

When those are done, then look at performance. There's no way in hell I'd push a 500k motor for more - somethings gotta give and it will when you least expect it.

No 

The 4AGE motor you've got is good man, you understanding wrong, just redo seals, rings and every other serviceable part within budget to bring it back down to the equiv. of a 100k motor. Enough le-way to optimise and build upon.

Only go the 4AGZE route if you're looking for more than you already have, the 4AGE still kicks ass in NA form, lot's of work can still be done to it to get it into the 200hp+ bracket.

Stay far away ;-)

A reasonable build worth any mention is going to cost you anywhere between 15k - 50k just for parts (Depending how far you want to go).

Best of luck with your project.

tappet gasket replaced
water seal sorted
plugz changed

having probs with the sump nut the previous owners decided to weld it on! lol idiotas!

its pulling pretty decent now ud be suprised ...

changing oil and filters in this weak and found that the problem could be the bougie cords cos i didnt have that prob with the old cords ...the toyota 4age cords are pricey like R 900.00 from midas so if any1 knows where i can get for a cheaper id appreciate it

... then i can do all the seals and rings (all origional parts)

then the 1st run on the dyno ;-)

I have thought very hard bout goin that route as it wouldnt be that pricey the motor is about 4.5k ive got the management already... its a simple swap and my current gear box would work as i have friends who have done it...so it would cost me like 7k for the conv MAX....but they hardly faster than my current car and so is a B16 vtec its hardly faster than my car ( note form experience i knw this lol;-])

and i was told that the 16v 4age is a more durable motor but i will consider this b4 i do futher mods thanx

problem solved: 13bt or 13btt.lol

You have personal message.  Chat tomorrow

Who did the work, name and shame justifiably so we don't ever use them :-)

20V motors are mean should go really well man

So the conversion is nearly complete...Reason 4takin so long...Not having all the parts ready b4 i took out the old motor so twaz difficult to get around...After alota hard work and money and advice from bojangles(my older brother) finally managed to start the new motor up...A friend did the dizzy for me and loaded his old 20v map from his previous car on my mr turbo jus so i can start her up...Car idles but low and rough...Smokes alot though think its running very rich and the motor is noisy...Il have it dyno'd by this week or next and have it ready for the meet...She's alive! Lol

Excellent going there :-) nice rev happy motor! Get that VVT issue sorted asap, makes a huge difference in drivability when setup correctly, you could also potentially be losing out on some power.

Brakes, looking for brand name or local? The powerbrake stuff is very good bang for buck locally, if you're looking for something a bit more exotic drop me a PM.

All the best.